Sunday, May 29, 2011

Monkey Temple and the animals of Nepal

Hi!

I thought I would write a bit about the Monkey Temple I visited a few days ago. Monkey Temple is known as Swayambhunath Stupa to the locals. Swayambhunath's worshippers include Hindus, Vajrayana Buddhists of northern Nepal and Tibet, and the Newari Buddhists. Each morning before dawn and even throughout the day, people climb the 365 steps that lead up the hill (mountain to foreigners) and begin a series of clockwise circles around the stupa (Newari Buddhists circle in the opposite, counterclockwise direction). The stupa is surrounded by prayer wheels which you spin in a clockwise motion as you walk around the stupa.


Interesting fact: I learnt that Nepali people don't consider the hills that surround the valley mountains...they are simply hills. to tourists, they are what you would consider mountains. What they consider mountains are the Himalayan mountain range.






On each of the four sides of the stupa there are a pair of big eyes. This stupa is very similar to the Bhoudhanath stupa I mentioned in a previous blog. These eyes are symbolic of God's all-seeing perspective. There is no nose between the eyes but rather a representation of the number one in the Nepali alphabet, signifying that the single way to enlightenment is through the Buddhist path.

I went with Nabin and Sandy right after work and it was the perfect time to go. Monkeys were climbing everywhere and there were hardly any visitors to the stupa. The monkeys are considered holy.  I was told the monkeys hang out there because it is an escape from the city. We spent some time admiring the city view of Kathmandu from the Swayambhunath peak, and soaking in some clean and fresh air, which was a big contrast from the city. Getting to the top was entertaining because there seemed to be a lot of baby monkeys this time of year playing and the refreshing change of scenery was nice because it felt like we were in the middle of a tropical forest.

At top it was amazing to see the sun setting and kind of funny at the same time. We were laughing about the load shedding problem in the Kathmandu Valley because as the sun set, you could see which districts had power and which districts did not. The valley started to light up except for odd pockets of houses here and there. Taking a picture from an airplane would make for a very interesting picture. It is troubling to understand this problem considering Nepal is second largest country in water resources and hydropower potential. What brings Nepal to a load shedding problem is politics.

At the top, a man was feeding the stray dogs oatmeal. This was the first time I have seen anyone feed any stray dogs in Kathmandu. Apparently devoted people climb the steps every morning and evening to feed the monkeys and dogs. Most of the time, the dogs wait to eat out of opened garbage on the street....they are the bottom feeders.

There are new puppies in my neighborhood! I see them almost everyday :) Jesse said I should slingshot food to them from my patio. We are advised not to approach the animals in Kathmandu valley as a lot of them could have rabies and are diseased. My doctor here even made me get a preventative rabies shot but I thought this was a bit extreme. But I was thinking, even if I were to slingshot food off my balcony for the stray animals in my neighborhood, the animals would not be the only ones scavenging for it.

Unfortunately a lot of people in Kathmandu valley are extremely poor and homeless or poor and have very low standard living conditions. At night, plenty of people go through garbage piles in the dark looking for anything that is edible. It is very sad to see and hard to actually imagine living that way.  I have been trying to research if Nepal has soup kitchens but I imagine it would be very difficult to run soup kitchens here with one of the poorest populations.  What is amazing to see in Nepal is the amount of filtering the garbage goes through before actually being disposed. Firts people throw out their trash, then people on the stree go through the garbage, then the cows go through the garbage, then the dogs, go through the garbage, then the bugs....etc etc. Everything is used to its maximum benefit here despite the mounds of garbage you see in the main districts.
There are hundred of non-governmental organisations in Nepal and you can see success in all of them but there is still a ton of work to be done to bring Nepal out of poverty during their transition period. As a westerner though, it is very difficult to try and understand the problems of Nepal as I have not lived here for my entire life, lived through their history nor understand completely their way of life. It is very important to realise that developed countries do not always have the best solutions. There that famous corny saying "Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish ; and you have fed him for a lifetime" but even that is very egotistical of westerners. That quotation is assuming we know the best fishing practices..or for the case of Nepal, we can easily assume we know the best poverty reduction strategies or what is best for Nepal but we in fact may not. Things here are so complicated its ridiculous. There is more than enough potential and with two major countries competing for interest in Nepal, its confussing to understand why Nepal has not used this to their advantage. Especially considering what I have already mentioned with regards to Nepal being the second largest country in water resources and hydropower potential.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Nepal 10 years ago and today

Today we went out for lunch with Sandy's co-worker. He comes from a rural village and is a lower caste Dalit. He works at PDRC with Sandy to help bring awareness to the the Dalit cause. He has come to Kathmandu valley with his 4 other brothers to look after them while they are in school and their parents stay in the village.  He has a pretty big responsibility but PDRC has helped out a lot.

After lunch we hired a taxi for the day and went to a couple fair trade shops in Patan...but we realised once we were there that many are closed on Saturday's as Saturday is their holiday. We decided to head into Patan durbar square afterwards. You have to pay 200 rupees to get in because they use this money to keep it clean and functioning. Although, by ts current looks, you can tell the amount of people in the region out numbers any restoration and clean up.

Talking to Sagun, my program officer at CECI, she said 10 years ago Kathmandu Valley was not like this. She said since the Maoists, plenty of people migrated to the valley and the Kathmandu centre looking for security and a future. People in the rural villages felt unsafe during the 10 year civil war. Sagun said there are 3 times as many people in Kathmandu centre then there was 10 years ago, and even for those who live here and have seen the change it is quite a shock to them. Now that the civil war is over, people do not want to relocate back so they have stayed in Kathmandu.

Tomorrow is another Bandh and so is Monday so we get a 4 day weekend which is nice :D...except we can't go anywhere.   It is still nice to be able to catch up on reading and some home work and relax. The Bandhs are getting more serious...there are now rallies going on I wish I could attend/witness. I asked Sandy's friend what he thinks will happen come May 28th, 2011 and he said people will be upset but they have hope still that a constitution will come eventually... he doesn't think there will be any big acts of violence of course or any rebellion. The Nepali people are very humble and are filled with a lot of happiness and hope..which is why i think they are able to continue living as they do. They do not even have road rage! They know one day things will improve and they operate differently then western countries. They know that whatever can't get done today, can get done tomorrow or the next day (I love this concept because it gives them time to talk amongst themselves (colleagues, families, friends) instead of constantly rushing around and ignoring each other becuase we are too busy to care about how our co-workers are doing etc) Their concept of time is circular and never ending.
Panorama view from patio at CECI Passage house


Kathmandu street puppy

Willy Wonka door 1 (mentioned in previous post)

One of Patan's Streets


Willy Wonka Door 2

What Patan does with their pllastic bottles :)

Patan Durbar square

Cockroach tools and dead roach






Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Happy Birthday Buddha!

Last night we met up with out friend Nabin who lives here in Kathmandu. We went to the Boudhanath World Heritage Site to celebrate Buddha's birthday. Buddha does not have an actual birthday date but his birthday is when there is the full moon. Bhuddists believe he was born on a full moon and died on a full moon. Most of the holidays in Nepal don't actually have specific dates for the same reason.



Nabin brought us to a super good rooftop restaurant so we could enjoy a few drinks and some good food as we looked down on the crowd. I am very happy that we went despite the traffic jams and the crowds around the Boudhanath. It was absolutely beautiful. The Boudhanath (also known as a stupa) was lit up with lights and decorated in flowers as offerings. As well, practicing monks and nuns were doing their prayers.


The Boudhanath is one of the most important place of pilgrimage for the Buddhist.  Way back when, the trade routes to central and western Tibet were fully open, traders and travellers and pilgrims would seek blessing at the stupa for safe asssage over the mountain passes.  It is the principal centre of Himalayan Buddhist worship.


The crowd was huge and everyone walked in a clockwise formation around the Boudhanath. At the bottom of the Boudhanath there are hundreds of prayer wheels that the people spin as they walk in the clockwise formation. According to Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning a prayer wheel is just as effective as reciting the sacred texts aloud. 

I enjoyed several 7 319's (7-up) while Sandy and Nabin enjoyed Everest Beer. We laughed a lot because i was amazed that all the soda sold in Nepal comes in the classic glass bottles but the bottles have the Nepali translated brand on them. The Nepali 7-up bottles look like they say say 7 319 but really say 7-up in Nepali. We spent a few hours upstairs and even got Nabin drunk by accident since Nepali people are so tiny :)




Tuesday, May 17, 2011

STOP THE WILLY WONKA MADNESS

Namaste!
This is my first blog since I have arrived in Kathmandu :). I think I will start by explaining the title I picked for this post.  Some of the houses in Nepal actually look like the rooms in the movie "Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory". For example, in the movie, the lead character lives in this room with his mother and 4 grandparents who happen to all share a bed. The door is about 4 feet tall to enter the house and it is a very small crawl space. There are families of 4 or more living in spaces this big in my neighborhood.
As far as the madness part of the title, it is complete madness here. Madness is both a good and bad way. Yes people are living in conditions that most of us have never even imagined but at the same time, the Nepali people have made their own way and have a culture that can possibly put Canada to shame in my opinion (I do not want to insult fellow Canadians! but the culture and traditions found in Nepal are unreal).  


The driving here is madness too, but you don't see any dented, scratched or demolished cars on the roads (this is not a statement about road conditions and driving outside the Kathmandu Valley or to remote villages). There are many close calls (bad madness) but I swear an upper force is guiding all Nepali Traffic goers (good madness). I was able to take a video of some of the traffic so I will hopefully be able to upload that in a post or two.


My roommate (Sandy) and I have noticed that every time we see something that shocks us, or makes us think wow this is definitely a different way of living we tend to say "Stop the Willy Wonka Madness!". I can give you another example. We were fortunate to get to go on a city tour of Kathmandu last Thursday and when we got in our truck and automatically put our seat belts on the driver told us that Nepali people don't wear seat belts despite the fact they know they should. To this I thought, Stop the Willy Wonka Madness...do people not realise how crazy the driving is here? But in the end I guess it is all relative to where you live so anytime I think "stop the Willy Wonka madness" I remind myself that this is a way of life and I am here to learn about how they live.




I have only been in Kathmandu for less than a week and I have learned so much already. I have been going through orientation with the CECI office in Baluwatar, Kathmandu and it has been great so far and well needed. It is through the staff members of CECI that I have been able to pick up a lot of information with regards to the current political situation in Nepal.
A political deadlock in Nepal is blocking any progress in both government cohesion and the drafting of a Constitution for Nepal. Political parties, students, and Maoists have called Bandhs (strikes) several times throughout 2010 and 2011. For the month of May, there was a Bandh called for May 13, and future Bandhs are expected for May 22, 23, 24. Aadhibashi Janjati (Indigenous Caste) called for Nepal a Bandh demanding timely constitution drafting and all agreements with the government to be fulfilled immediately. The constitution is due May 28th, 2011 but the rumours in Nepal have it that it will not be ready in time. The constitution is already a year late and has an extension until May 28.
The problem with producing a constitution is that the political parties have internal conflict themselves and can not agree on certain topics. Until there is unity among the political parties, Nepal's people are going to be left without a constitution.
Despite the problems with development of a constitution, a positive note is that even though there are demonstrations and Bandhs (which are mostly non violent) the country has remained relatively free of major acts of violence.


Since most people reading this are from Canada or well developed countries, Bandhs are something unreal to us. In Canada, most strikes do not shut down an entire city for a day (excluding the example of the bus strike last year, but even then, businesses were still open and people continued on). In Nepal, when there is a Bandh, the entire city shuts down. Restaurants remain open apparently because even the protesters have to eat :) but there are no taxis and no public transportation or vehicles and the stores close. The police and military also do rounds, driving in their trucks armed with guns. It is quite shocking that Nepal’s Bandhs can shut down a city for the day and suspend productivity for the day. I think the patrolling of the police and army is a preventative as opposed to a reactive action because I have not heard of any violence yet this year do to Bandhs. Nepal just came out of a 10 year civil war so its understandable as to why there is lots of security around.
The end of May should bring some interesting events. It is predicted that as we draw closer to May 28, 2011 there will be more Bandhs called. What will actually happen is unknown though. You can tell though that the Nepal people are loosing faith in their government. For the time being I will leave you with a link to an article that is an interview with Nepal's New Prime Minister, Jhalanath Khanal with regards to the constitution deadline and the tension between political parties.

The Himalayan Times: "Peace, Constitution won't take long" AJAYA BHADRA KHANAL/PRAKASH RIMAL http://www.thehimalayantimes.com/fullNews.php?headline=%C2%B4Peace%E2%80%9A+constitution+won%C2%B4t+take+long%C2%B4&NewsID=287945